Northeastern Laos is rugged, mountainous, and poor. The Houaphan province is one of Laos' least visited, least developed, and most contaminated with unexploded ordinance.
Not many people come this way. We took the daily ramshackle local bus 10 hours from Phonsavan to Xam Neua, Houaphan's capital, population 16,000. Finally a corner of Laos that feels a little communist. Propaganda broadcasts drone from loudspeakers in the morning and evening, and the broad, quiet streets make you feel small.
This area was the stronghold of the communist Pathet Lao during the civil war, and it was heavily bombed by the US during the Secret War from 1964-1973. The communist leadership and the local people survived the bombing by moving into the extensive cave networks in the limestone cliffs and following a strict routine. Fields were only worked at night, and cooking was only done pre-dawn and after sunset. Aircraft would attack any signs of life during the day, so the people had to stay inside. They even slaughtered their white and red chickens because they were too visible from the air.
We visited Vieng Xai, the top secret Pathet Lao HQ cave city, and saw the caves where the Politburo lived and worked. Conditions are spartan: the President had his own humble room and office, but the rest of the Politburo bunked together. The Pathet Lao furnished the cave network to create barracks, hospitals, a printing press, and even a theater.
At it's height Vieng Xai supported a population of 20,000, including representatives and technical experts from the USSR, China, Vietnam, and Cuba. After the 1973 ceasefire the Pathet Lao leaders and ministries constructed new offices immediately outside their respective caves, and Vieng Xai was the capital of the Laos from 1973-75.
We're in Vietnam now, and it's hugely different from Laos. More to follow.
-Peter
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