Konglor Cave, the headlamp at the end of the tunnel

There's nothing in Konglor Cave to be afraid of, but your imagination more than makes up for it. The cave is 7km long and has a river running through it, so the only way to explore is to board a tiny wooden motorboat and cast off into pitch black darkness.

It's like sailing into a vast monster, like the asteroid worm in Empire Strikes Back or the whale in Pinocchio. The river winds through the cave, never less than 10m wide, but the caverns can open up to more than 100m around you, lost in the deep deep shadows. Your puny LED headlamps make no difference, but your guide's is strong enough to punch a thin line through the gloom so he can steer around the rocks and rapids. All you can see is the hint of enormous caverns and feel the warm humid wind in your face. It's too easy for your mind to wander and dream up terrible monsters or losing your way, but it's just in your head.

Luckily part way through they've illuminated some of the rock formations, so you can check your eyes are still working.

After 7km upstream the river exits the cave and you reemerge blinking into the sun. There's a village on this side, and the cave is their only route to the outside world. Take a short break and then it's back into the cave for the return journey.

Konglor village is in the middle of nowhere, which is part of the appeal. Nestled at the end of a valley of sheer limestone cliffs, less than 1000 villagers and only the bare minimum of tourist infrastructure. Take it easy, wander around the village, and watch the rice harvest.

Now that we're off the main tourist trail travel is much slower. There's maybe one bus a day to your destination, and it usually leaves at 7 or 8 AM. That's ok though because the roosters woke you up at 4:45.

-Peter